Pandora is a new perfume by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes. She describes it as expressing “a new and an old energy; something ancient and modern, too.” This unisex blend is mostly natural, with a very small percentage of synthetics (2.5%). The slightly spicy, citrus, and herbal top notes, including a ruby fruits accord, bergamot, davana, and others led the heart of gorgeous notes like rose de mai absolute, juhi jasmine (a rare jasmine growing only in North India), linden blossom, green tea, and more.
The “old” in this blend is definitely the Mousse de Saxe botanical accord that Dawn utilizes. I was not previously familiar with this base, but upon doing some research, discovered that it dates back to the early 20th century, and includes mosses and other botanical notes. This base was used in several 1920s perfume bases and has an impact on perfumes for decades after. However, Dawn adds a few notes to put her unique twist on this base.
This perfume is beautifully smooth and decadent, one that I would reserve for special ocassions and celebrations, though I am sure that Dawn would prefer it worn often in celebration of the wonderful inspiration behind this perfume. I love it for its old world nostalgia as much as for the newness expressed through the rare and unique notes Dawn uses. I would describe it as a mossy floral with rain-drenched herbs — perfect for Autumn, but also year-round, really.
Notes for DSH Pandora:
Top: ruby fruits (botanical accord), bergamot, aldehyde, spice notes, ozone, violet leaf absolute, davana, cassis bid, green and pink pepper
Heart: rose de mai absolute, juhi jasmine, linden blossom absolute, yerba maté absolute, cabreuva wood, orris co2, green tea absolute
Base: mousse de saxe accord (botanical), cypress, fossilized amber absolute, ambergris tincture, patchouli co2, vetiver co2, muhuhu, australian sandalwood, tonka bean absolute, oakmoss green, vanilla absolute.
Disclosure: I was sent a sample to review. All opinions are my own.